We Will Remember Them

To quote Wikipedia:

“The Menin Gate Memorial to the Missing is a war memorial in Ypres, Belgium dedicated to the British and Commonwealth soldiers who were killed in the Ypres Salient of World War I and whose graves are unknown.”

It seems they ran out of room to inscribe all the names on the gate so some of the remaining names (about 34000) are on the walls at the Tyne Cot Memorial.

The ceremony itself has been performed every day since 1928 (except during the occupation in the Second World War).

We stayed in Ieper for two nights and attended the Last Post Ceremony at the Menin Gate both nights.

Friday 3rd May 2013

After enjoying a relaxing and satisfying meal on the first night we made our way to the Menin Gate.

It was about 19:30 when we arrived and people had already started to gather for the ceremony. It seems if you want a front row view you need to get there early.


The crowds continued to gather on all four sides of the memorial. Ceremony officials were also milling around making sure everything was going to plan.


A little before 20:00 the buglers began to appear.




They then prepared to get into position.




Silence descends over the memorial and the ceremony begins.



When they had finished, the extract from Laurence Binyon’s poem “For the Fallen”, often used in acts of remembrance,  was recited by someone (a visitor or guest of some kind):

“They shall grow not old, as we that are left grow old:

Age shall not weary them, nor the years condemn.

At the going down of the sun and in the morning,

We will remember them.”

After which a silence was observed.

Now the people who had come to lay wreaths marched across the gate one group at a time until finally the ceremony was over and the crowds dispersed.

Finally the buglers play out.

It was difficult not to be moved by the whole ceremony and as we returned back through the city to our hotel the thought of the thousands of lives lost remained at the forefront of my mind.

Saturday 4th May 2013

The day had been spent around the local area seeing places including Tyne Cot and Passchendaele. We got back to the city in good time and walked to the Ramparts Museum and then a gentle walk back to the Menin Gate for the Last Post Ceremony.

We arrived earlier this night intent on getting a clearer view and did so without trouble although the area quickly filled up around us.

This night was a little different. There were more people taking part including The Liverpool Clan Wallace Pipe Band and the Rochdale Festival Choir.

Approaching 20:00 things started with the Pipe band approaching finally taking up position at one end of the gate.




The buglers entered as normal taking up position at the opposite end of the gate and joined by a solo piper.




The laying of the wreaths was accompanied by the Rochdale Festival Choir.

After the ceremony itself was complete the pipe band again fired up, marching up and down the length of the gate.

Liverpool Clan Wallace Pipe Band.

Finally they marched back towards the main square in the city where they performed some more.






As for us? We went back to the hotel to marshal our resources for the following day. We would be leaving Flanders and heading into France to explore the Somme.

To be continued...

A Perfect Day

We could not have picked a better weekend if we had tried. The sun was shining and the forecast was for more of the same.

Leaving from Birmingham Airport we would be flying into Brussels and from there hiring a car beginning our journey to Flanders Fields.

The Road to Wipers

Ok, the place is actually called Ieper but the British troops nicknamed the city Wipers and it was also referred to by the French name Ypres.

We had fine weather and our initial journey was marred only by a navigational dispute resulting in a road-work barrier jumping out at us, surgically removing one of our wing mirrors. We laughed about this later.

In a state of shock we fell back on the itinerary which had us visiting the Hooge Crater Museum for a cup of tea and a snack.

Back on the road and taking the correct exit on the Hellfire Corner roundabout we parked up easily and were soon sitting down to a toasted ham and cheese sandwich and a refreshing cup of tea.

A recurring theme at many of the café/museums would be artillery and flags, Hooge was no different.

Onwards

We were a little behind schedule, as if that really mattered. The sun was shining and fully refreshed we set off into the city of Ieper to find our hotel and check-in.

This was the first time I had driven on the wrong side of the road. The motorway from Brussels had been easy enough but now we were navigating the normal roads. My kerb-on-the-right hat was firmly in place. The only real problem I found was changing gear with my right hand. Perhaps paying that little bit extra for an automatic might have been more prudent.

But I digress.

The address successfully entered into the satnav we set off. Unfortunately the route “she” wanted to take us on was blocked, but as is the beauty of satnavs we set off in another direction and after the initial protests of “turn around when possible” we were directed to our hotel.

The road was lined with parked cars but we spotted a small space and spent a good few minutes reversing in (I expect an embarrassing YouTube video to be posted by an amused observer).

The next question of course. Could we park there? As luck would have it we had parked right outside our hotel. We nipped in with our bags and asked the lady on reception about the parking. She came out and suggested reversing a little more away from an opening, even standing there to guide me back.

Did we have to pay? Guided again, yes, there was a machine further up the street. Of course everything was in Flemish (I can only read Flemish menus) so I threw in what seemed to the maximum amount and got a ticket. Valid until 09:30 the next morning. Perfect!

Into the hotel, check-in, throw our bags into the room and set off into the city to dive back into our itinerary.

The Cloth Hall

The original Cloth Hall was destroyed by artillery fire during World War One, it lay in ruins. That it was reconstructed after the war to its pre-war condition I find remarkable.




Today it houses the In Flanders Fields Museum, the next destination on our itinerary.




We got there just in time slipping in before the last entry.

€9 each and our wrist bands were handed over (€1 upon return). These provided access into the museum and also activated various displays to give you a more personal experience.



There were lots of interesting displays with information, artefacts and reconstructions. The setting added to the experience, notice the arches in the background of the picture below.




One of the displays I found most interesting was the cross-section of tree showing the period of war.



We exit the museum into the sunny evening, quietly absorbing what we have just seen.

Steak and chips (not quite phrased like that) follow before heading over to the Menin Gate for the Last Post ceremony.

Our first day draws to a most satisfactory conclusion.

To be continued…